Highlights of the Kingdom of Jordan

AMMAN — Jordan’s capital and largest city (pop. 972,000) is situated just a short drive from the Syrian and Israeli borders (about 45 mi/72 km northeast of Jerusalem.) The area has been constantly inhabited since 6000 BC, though only a few of its ancient buildings endured. This somewhat drab, although modern, city was not much more than a village until it became the seat of government in the 1920s — since then it has evolved dramatically. (Its population swelled with the arrival of succeeding waves of dislocated Palestinians, who today make up a bulk of the city’s residents.)

Sit in on a performance in the 2,000-year-old Roman amphitheater (it holds 6,000) or the new Royal Cultural Center. Also visit the Basman Palace, the city’s Folklore Museum, Museum of Popular Traditions and the National Archaeological Museum. Tour the Forum and Citadel Hill to see the few remaining Roman ruins (including a temple of Hercules). The hill provides a vast picture of Amman and is a serene escape from Amman’s bustling atmosphere. The Jordan National Gallery displays modern Jordanian and Middle Eastern art and the university merits a visit. Don’t miss the huge King Abdullah Mosque, built in the late 1980s.

A short drive west of town in the Wadi Seer Valley are the ruins of Qasr al-Abid Castle and the Araq al-Amir Caves. An journey can be made to the nearby towns of Ajlun (see separate paragraph) and Salt (13 mi/21 km northwest of Amman — features enchanting 19th-century carved-stone architecture). Allow at least a day in Amman.